A whole-house repipe is one of the biggest plumbing jobs a homeowner will ever buy — and the PEX-vs-copper debate around it never ends. This guide covers what the job actually involves, compares the materials honestly, and walks the sequence from planning to pressure test.
Repipes happen for real reasons: pinhole leaks in aging copper, galvanized pipe choking down to a trickle, or slab leaks that keep coming back. The job means replacing every water line in the house — and pulling out the old system, which is where the scrap story lives.
Whether the new pipe is PEX or copper, the process is the same: plan the runs, open access, replace section by section, test everything, and close up. This guide walks that process the way experienced repipe crews run it.
Repipes require permits and inspections in most jurisdictions, and the work must meet the local plumbing code. This guide explains the process — it does not replace a licensed plumber. If old pipe is buried in a slab or walls contain older materials, test before disturbing.
Repipes must meet the local plumbing code (IPC or UPC as adopted): pipe sizing per code tables, support spacing, protection through framing, and pressure testing. References are to current model codes — check your local amendments, since material approvals and testing rules vary by jurisdiction.
Confirm the repipe is actually needed: map the leak history, check water pressure at multiple fixtures, and inspect accessible pipe for corrosion, pinholes, or galvanized restriction. A house with three slab leaks in two years is a repipe candidate; a house with one pinhole might just need a repair. Scope the job honestly — repiping a house that only needed a section replaced is an expensive oversell.
PEX wins on cost, speed, freeze resistance, and fewer fittings (long flexible runs mean fewer joints). Copper wins on longevity track record, UV and rodent resistance, and homeowner perception — some buyers specifically want copper. Both meet code when installed right. Present both to the homeowner with real numbers and let them choose; the right material is the one the customer understands and the installer does well.
Draw the house and map every fixture, then plan the runs: trunk-and-branch or home-run manifold for PEX, sized trunks stepping down to branches for copper. Mark where pipe will run — attics, crawl spaces, chases — and where access openings are needed. A repipe planned on paper opens half as many holes as one planned on the fly.
A repipe takes days, and the family still lives there. Plan the water shutdowns in phases: keep one bathroom functional as long as possible, do the kitchen last, and communicate the schedule daily. Crews that manage the shutdowns well get referrals; crews that leave a family without water for three days get reviews.
Cut clean, repairable access openings — straight lines, minimal size, in places that patch easily. Run the new pipe section by section, supporting at code spacing and protecting through framing with nail plates. Cap and label every stub as you go. Work top-down or in zones so completed sections can be tested while the crew keeps pulling.
Pressurize the complete new system and hold it — the standing test proves every joint before a single wall closes. Walk every run with a flashlight and a dry hand, checking fittings, manifolds, and stubs. A leak found now costs minutes; a leak found after drywall costs a day and a patch. Do not let the schedule pressure you past this step.
As new sections go live, pull the old copper out in straight lengths and stack it cleanly — this is the scrap stream, and straight, clean pipe is the easiest to handle. Cut it into manageable lengths, keep brass valves and fittings in a separate bucket, and keep the copper out of the debris pile. A 100-to-400-pound copper system pulled cleanly is worth real money.
Patch the access openings, restore finishes, and walk the homeowner through the new system: show them the main shutoff, the manifold valves if PEX, and what changed. Run every fixture, check for hammer and noise, and verify hot water delivery times. A clean walkthrough with the system explained is what turns a disruptive job into a five-star review.
Finish the job the way it will be serviced: insulate the hot-water lines (most energy codes require it, and it cuts wait time at the tap), label the main shutoff and every branch valve clearly, and protect any exposed pipe in garages, crawl spaces, or exterior walls from freezing with insulation and heat trace where the climate demands it. Leave the homeowner a simple map — manifold valve layout for PEX, or a marked-up plan for copper — taped inside a cabinet door. A repipe that is insulated, labeled, and documented is a system the next plumber can service without guessing.
Every one of these has cost someone a callback. Learn them here instead of on the job.
Long 1/2-inch runs to a bathroom group give weak showers when two fixtures run. Size trunks and branches per code tables, not by habit.
A repipe with one shutoff at the main is a service nightmare. Valve the branches so future repairs do not drain the whole house.
Closing walls before testing is gambling. Pressurize, hold, and verify — the test catches the one bad joint in a hundred.
Long PEX runs need room to expand; copper needs proper anchoring. Restrained pipe transmits noise and stresses fittings.
Tying new pipe into corroded galvanized defeats the repipe. If the galvanized is the problem, all of it goes.
A full pulled copper system runs 100 to 400 pounds — the single richest plumbing scrap stream there is. Even when the new pipe is PEX, the old pipe coming out is copper, and its value can offset a real share of the job's material costs. Pull it in straight lengths, keep it clean, and keep it separate from the debris.
Most repipe crews split the old copper at the end of the job. No minimums — every bucket counts, and on bigger lots we handle the freight so you don't lift a finger. When the pile is ready, call Sonny at 312-880-8174.
No minimums — every bucket counts. On bigger lots, we handle the freight so you don't lift a finger.
Work to code. Hire a licensed pro where required. This guide explains how the work is done — it does not replace training, apprenticeship, or a license.