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Photograph the material, nameplates and quantity, then text them to 312-880-8174 or call.
Brass and bronze are both copper alloys, both gold-ish to red-ish, and both non-magnetic — which is why sellers mix them up. Four field tests, in order, settle it: color, magnet, weight and markings, and the file scratch.
Color is the fastest test and it's right most of the time. Brass runs gold-yellow (copper plus zinc); bronze runs reddish-brown (copper plus tin). Hold the piece in good light and compare it to something you know.
The honest caveat: tarnish lies. Old brass goes brown and old bronze goes dark, and red brass sits between the two. If the color is ambiguous, don't guess — move to test 4.
Brass and bronze are both non-magnetic: a magnet won't grab either one. This test doesn't separate brass from bronze — it separates both of them from steel and from plated junk.
If the magnet sticks firmly, the piece is steel or iron — possibly with a thin brass or bronze-colored plating. Test several spots: a steel screw in a brass valve will grab the magnet locally without meaning the whole valve is steel.
Both are dense — a brass or bronze part feels heavy for its size compared to aluminum or zinc die-cast. Bronze typically feels a touch heavier than brass, but that's a tiebreaker, not a test.
Markings beat guessing. Mill products are often stamped with C-numbers — C360, C932, C521 — and the stamp is the final word. And consider what the piece was: plumbing fittings and valves lean brass; bearings, bushings, and gears lean bronze. What the C-numbers mean.
Take a file to a hidden edge and scratch through the surface. Gold-yellow scratch: brass. Reddish-brown scratch: bronze. Gray underneath: plating over steel — not solid at all.
One thing the internet gets wrong: the spark test. Grinding a piece to read its sparks is a steel-shop test — it tells you about carbon in steel, and it tells you nothing useful about brass or bronze. Don't grind your brass; file it.
If the four tests still leave you unsure, that's normal — the line between red brass and bronze is genuinely hazy, even for buyers. Text a clear photo of the piece to 312-880-8174 and we'll call it for you before you drive anywhere.
Brass & Bronze Dictionary — the full hub of alloy-by-alloy guides. Yellow Brass — the gold-yellow workhorse. Bronze — the copper-plus-tin family. How Brass & Bronze Get Graded — what the ID protects.
No. Neither brass nor bronze is magnetic. If a magnet sticks, the piece is steel or iron — possibly plated to look like brass or bronze.
Color: brass is gold-yellow, bronze is reddish-brown. When tarnish hides the color, a file scratch on a hidden edge shows the true metal underneath.
No. The spark test is a steel test — it reads carbon in steel and tells you nothing about copper alloys. File the piece instead of grinding it.
Text a photo to 312-880-8174 — we'll identify it for you. https://ironcrestindustrialsurplus.com/brass-vs-bronze has the full four-test walkthrough.
Text a photo of your brass or bronze to Sonny at 312-880-8174 — or call 312-880-8174 for today's number.
Prices move with the market daily. Text a photo of your brass or bronze and get today's number — quoted against the market, honored at pickup. Same-day pickup in Chicago — and I'll travel nationwide for the right load.
Photograph the material, nameplates and quantity, then text them to 312-880-8174 or call.
We review what the material is, its condition and quantity, and whether it fits a direct purchase.
For qualifying material, we discuss a direct purchase offer and the next steps.