Send photos
Photograph the material, nameplates and quantity, then text them to 312-880-8174 or call.
Red brass is brass with the copper turned up — roughly four-fifths copper with tin, zinc, and lead in the mix. It runs redder than yellow brass but it isn't bronze, and buyers pay for the difference. Here's where it comes from and how to sort it right.
Brass is copper plus zinc, and red brass is what you get when copper dominates the mix — roughly four-fifths copper, with smaller amounts of tin, zinc, and lead. That copper-heavy mix is exactly why it looks redder than yellow brass: less zinc means less gold, more copper-red.
The tin is why people mix red brass up with bronze. Both hold copper and tin — but red brass is still a brass at heart, sold and sorted on its own. The classic trade example is the cast red brass used for valve bodies, around 85% copper with tin, lead, and zinc making up the rest.
Hold the three side by side and the order is clear: yellow brass runs gold, red brass runs a warm reddish-copper, and pure copper runs the reddest of all. Red brass sits in the middle — a coppery red-brown that's easy to confuse with bronze until you check what the piece actually was.
Tarnish dulls all of them. A file scratch on a hidden edge is the honest test: red brass scratches to a coppery red, yellow brass to gold, and plating-over-steel breaks through to gray.
Red brass is a casting alloy, so it shows up where liquid metal was poured into molds: plumbing valve bodies, pump parts, pipe flanges, steam fittings, and older fire-hydrant and meter parts. If you pulled a heavy red valve out of a commercial tear-out, odds are good it's red brass.
Water meter bodies deserve their own note: many are bronze rather than red brass, and meters get separated at grading time. When in doubt, text a photo and let us call it.
Clean red brass is solid, free of steel and iron attachments, and not mixed with yellow brass or bronze. Pull handles, steel stems, and packing where you can. A little solder on old joints is expected; heavy solder and lead-wiped joints get handled separately.
Keep red brass in its own pile — mixed brass loads get bought as mixed, and mixed always leaves money on the table. How brass and bronze get graded explains the four levers.
Brass & Bronze Dictionary — the full hub of alloy-by-alloy guides. Yellow Brass — the gold-yellow workhorse. Bronze — copper plus tin, the redder family. Brass vs Bronze — the field identification guide.
No, though the confusion is fair — both hold copper and tin. Red brass is a copper-heavy brass; bronze is copper plus tin as its defining pair. They are sorted and bought separately.
Zinc content. More zinc pushes brass toward gold (yellow brass); more copper pushes it toward red (red brass). The color is the alloy talking.
Plumbing valve bodies, pump parts, pipe flanges, and steam fittings — mostly from commercial tear-outs, plant shutdowns, and plumber's stock.
Don't. Keep them in separate piles — mixed brass gets bought as mixed, and the redder alloy is the one that loses. https://ironcrestindustrialsurplus.com/how-brass-bronze-is-graded
Text a photo of your brass or bronze to Sonny at 312-880-8174 — or call 312-880-8174 for today's number.
Prices move with the market daily. Text a photo of your brass or bronze and get today's number — quoted against the market, honored at pickup. Same-day pickup in Chicago — and I'll travel nationwide for the right load.
Photograph the material, nameplates and quantity, then text them to 312-880-8174 or call.
We review what the material is, its condition and quantity, and whether it fits a direct purchase.
For qualifying material, we discuss a direct purchase offer and the next steps.